known city, unknown places Sniff and tell : Over 20 tonnes of seafood are handled by over 3,000 people at this market every day. Asha S. Menon fishes around for details of the trade. I am in the way. Of thermocol boxes or men dragging boxes of fish, of cups of tea or women with cane baskets… I have no fish to sell or buy, but am at Chintadripet Fish Market during one its busiest hours (5 a.m.). I hang around, hoping to unde rstand its working between shouts and being pushed about. My first stop is a man who has balanced his plastic, deep tray of fish on many boxes. After a few full-throated cries, the man disgorges himself near his makeshift stall and into the muddy water pools on its floor, and in a few minutes somebody upsets his tray. After a few shouts, the prawns that were spilt in the muddy water on the floor are restored to the tray — back in business. Hygiene is the first victim in cramped spaces, and therefore KMS Dharmalingam, head of the fish vendors’ association that has r...
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